The full point schedule
This is the whole table from the PDF. Fill your own quantities against each row and get both sides to sign it before conduit is buried.
| Room / zone | 6A sockets | 16A sockets | Light points | Fan | AC point | Data / TV | Switch position and heights |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main door / foyer | 2 | 0 | 2 | 0 | 0 | 1 (video door phone) | Entry switchboard at 48 in AFL, two-way to living |
| Living room | 6 | 1 | 6 | 1 | 1 | 3 | Board by the entry and a second at the sofa end |
| TV wall | 4 | 1 | 2 | 0 | 0 | 2 + HDMI conduit | Sockets behind the unit at 30 in AFL, loop to a switch |
| Dining | 3 | 0 | 2 | 1 | 0 | 0 | Pendant on a dimmer, switched from the pantry side |
| Kitchen — counter | 6 | 0 | 3 | 0 | 0 | 0 | Backsplash sockets at 42 in AFL, clear of the chimney |
| Kitchen — appliances | 2 | 5 | 2 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 16A for hob, chimney, oven, microwave, dishwasher |
| Kitchen — utility | 2 | 2 | 1 | 0 | 0 | 0 | Washing machine and purifier on separate 16A |
| Master bedroom | 6 | 1 | 4 | 1 | 1 | 2 | Two-way at door and both bedsides; bedside at 24 in AFL |
| Master wardrobe | 1 | 0 | 2 | 0 | 0 | 0 | Door-sensor strip or a switch inside the shutter line |
| Master bathroom | 2 | 1 | 3 | 0 | 0 | 0 | Shaver socket at 48 in; geyser 16A outside the wet zone |
| Bedroom 2 | 5 | 1 | 3 | 1 | 1 | 2 | Two-way at door and bedside, study socket at desk height |
| Bedroom 2 bathroom | 1 | 1 | 2 | 0 | 0 | 0 | Geyser on its own MCB, exhaust on the light switch |
| Study / WFH corner | 6 | 1 | 2 | 0 | 0 | 2 | Desk-height sockets at 30 in, one under-desk loop |
| Balcony | 2 | 0 | 2 | 0 | 0 | 0 | Weather-rated socket, light on the living-room board |
| Passage | 1 | 0 | 2 | 0 | 0 | 0 | Two-way from both ends, night-light circuit |
| Pooja unit | 1 | 0 | 2 | 0 | 0 | 0 | Dedicated switch, 2700K warm source only |
| Utility / dry balcony | 2 | 1 | 1 | 0 | 0 | 0 | Dryer and machine points at 40 in AFL |
| AC outdoor units | 0 | 3 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | Isolators near each ODU, drain routed to the shaft |
| Router / network | 2 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 1 uplink | Central shelf, not inside a metal box |
| Distribution board | - | - | - | - | - | - | Separate RCCB for wet areas; label every circuit |
Quantities shown are a working default for a 2BHK of about 700 sq ft carpet. AFL means above finished floor level.
How to agree it with your electrician
- Mark the plan first, then the wall. Chalk every socket and switch at its real height and walk the flat before conduit goes in.
- Sit on the bed and reach. Bedside sockets at 24 in AFL on both sides is the single most appreciated line on this sheet.
- Count the kitchen 16A points against the appliance list, not against a standard. Five is typical once a dishwasher is involved.
- Label every circuit at the DB and keep the as-built drawing. You will need it the first time you drill a wall.
Three regrets it prevents
- No socket where the router has to live. A router inside a metal box on the floor is the most common Wi-Fi complaint in a new flat.
- A switch behind an open door. Marking switch positions on the wall, with the door swing drawn, catches it in five minutes.
- A distribution board with no spare ways. Adding a circuit later means re-chasing a wall that has just been painted.
Read the reasoning in electrical planning for interiors, or size the lighting with the lumens calculator.
Frequently asked questions
How much does adding an electrical point cost?+
Rs 950 to 1,250 per point at an essential specification, Rs 1,300 to 1,900 at premium and Rs 2,200 to 4,000 where automation or structured cabling is involved. That is during first fix. After the wall is plastered and painted, the same point costs two to three times as much and leaves a visible repair.
What height should sockets and switches be at?+
General sockets at 12 to 16 inches AFL, bedside at 24 inches, kitchen counter sockets at 42 inches and clear of the chimney, and switchboards at 48 inches. Desk-height sockets at 30 inches save you an extension lead in a study.
Do I need a separate circuit for each air conditioner?+
Yes. Each AC should have its own 16A or 20A circuit with an isolator near the outdoor unit. Sharing a circuit between two ACs trips it on simultaneous start-up and, in a Mumbai summer, that happens every afternoon.
How much spare capacity should the DB have?+
Twenty per cent of ways, and enough incoming capacity to add an AC and an induction hob later. Circuits are cheap while the wall is open. A new circuit after handover means chasing a finished wall, and the paint never quite matches.
Should the whole flat be rewired in a renovation?+
If the building is over 25 years old, almost certainly. Old aluminium wiring, undersized earth and a board with no RCCB are common in Mumbai buildings of that vintage. Rewiring during a renovation costs a fraction of doing it as a standalone job later.