The complete plumbing schedule
The whole table is below. Confirm each row against the fixture you have actually purchased rather than against a generic default.
| Location | Point | Line | Size | Height above floor | Check before closing the wall |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kitchen sink | Cold inlet | Cold | 15 mm | 18–20 in | Clear of the drawer box behind the sink cabinet |
| Kitchen sink | Hot inlet | Hot | 15 mm | 18–20 in | Only if a geyser serves the kitchen; insulate the run |
| Kitchen sink | Waste | Drain | 40 mm | Below counter | Deep-seal trap with an accessible clean-out |
| Kitchen | Water purifier | Cold | 15 mm | 24 in | Inlet and a drain point; do not run the drain to the sink bowl |
| Kitchen | Dishwasher | Cold | 15 mm | 18 in | Inlet, drain and 16A socket in the same bay |
| Utility | Washing machine | Cold | 15 mm | 36 in | Bib cock with a hose union and a floor trap within 3 ft |
| Utility | Floor trap | Drain | 75 mm | Floor | Fall towards the trap checked with water, not by eye |
| Master bath | WC inlet | Cold | 15 mm | 8–10 in | Angle valve position matched to the WC model |
| Master bath | WC waste (S or P trap) | Soil | 110 mm | Per fixture | Rough-in distance confirmed against the actual WC |
| Master bath | Health faucet | Cold | 15 mm | 18–24 in | Reachable seated, on the dominant-hand side |
| Master bath | Wash basin inlet | Hot + cold | 15 mm | 22–24 in | Behind the vanity, clear of the drawer carcass |
| Master bath | Basin waste | Drain | 32–40 mm | 16–18 in | Bottle trap chosen if the vanity is open below |
| Master bath | Shower mixer | Hot + cold | 15 mm | 42–48 in | Centred on the shower zone, not on the tile joint |
| Master bath | Overhead shower arm | - | 15 mm | 80–84 in | Set to the tallest user; check against the false ceiling |
| Master bath | Hand shower outlet | - | 15 mm | 48 in | Diverter direction confirmed before tiling |
| Master bath | Geyser inlet and outlet | Hot + cold | 15 mm | 72–78 in | Outside the direct spray zone; dedicated 16A point |
| Master bath | Floor trap | Drain | 75 mm | Floor | 1 in 80 fall to the trap across the whole floor |
| Common bath | WC, basin, health faucet | Mixed | 15 / 110 mm | As above | Confirm the shorter rough-in used in older buildings |
| Common bath | Wall-mixer with bath spout | Hot + cold | 15 mm | 30 in | Spout 6 in above the bucket line, not above a tile edge |
| Balcony | Bib cock and drain | Cold | 15 / 75 mm | 24 in | Drain to the shaft, never into the flat below's chhajja |
| Whole flat | Main shut-off valve | Cold | 25 mm | Accessible | One valve per bathroom plus a flat-level isolation valve |
| Whole flat | Pressure test | - | - | - | 24-hour test at 1.5 times working pressure before plaster |
Heights are above finished floor level. Confirm rough-in distances against the model of WC and basin you have bought.
How to run it before the wall closes
- Buy the sanitaryware first. A WC rough-in set to a generic distance and a pan bought later rarely agree.
- Pressure test for 24 hours at 1.5 times working pressure and get the result recorded before any plaster goes on.
- Photograph every chased wall before plastering and keep the images with your as-built drawings.
- Check reach, not just height. Sit on the WC and put your hand where the health faucet will be; 18 to 24 inches on the dominant-hand side is not a formality.
What it prevents
- A vanity you cannot install because the inlet lands inside the drawer box.
- A shower mixer centred on a tile joint rather than on the shower zone.
- A washing machine with no floor trap within reach, which means a hose across the utility floor for the next ten years.
See how the sequence fits together in the bathroom renovation guide, or price it on the bathroom cost page.
Frequently asked questions
CPVC, composite or copper?+
CPVC is the Mumbai default for hot and cold and performs well when the jointing is done properly. Composite pipe is more forgiving of movement and costs more. Copper is rare in residential work now and is mostly seen in older buildings and in some commercial hot-water applications.
What is the right fall for a drain line?+
1 in 60 for waste lines and 1 in 80 across a bathroom floor to the trap. Steeper is not better on a soil line — water outruns solids and the line blocks. Check the floor fall with water rather than a level, because a level will not show you a hollow.
Where should the geyser go?+
Above the door or on the wall away from the direct spray zone, at 72 to 78 inches, with its own 16A point and MCB. Keep the inlet and outlet accessible; a geyser boxed into a false ceiling with no access panel has to be demolished to be serviced.
Can I move a WC in a Mumbai flat?+
Within a sunk slab, usually yes, by up to two or three feet using the sunk depth. In a non-sunk bathroom the drain runs in the slab below, which is your neighbour's ceiling, so the options are a floor-mounted P-trap, a macerator or a raised platform. None is free, and all need society consent.
Should I replace concealed plumbing in a renovation?+
In a building over 25 years old, yes. Concealed galvanised iron lines from that era are usually scaled and leaking at the joints. Replacing them while the wall is already open costs a fraction of doing it as an emergency two years later.